Getting rid of moles in your lawn or garden can be a frustrating and fruitless chore even in the event that you know what you do. The multitude of misinformation and home-spun recommendations out there do not help matters either. People have used smoke bombs, red pepper, poison peanuts, razor blades, chewing gum, human hair, vibrating devices and long list of dangerous substances to find the moles out of their lawns. There’s very little evidence to support these methods. After years of trialing this method or that method I am of the conviction that there’s only one mole control strategy that works. Effective mole control consists of:
1. Effective mole traps
2. An excellent understanding of a moles behaviour and customs.
There are a variety of mole traps in the marketplace. The two most common styles are also the most effective. They work on the same premise as far as having a trap pan placed on the top side of the mole tunnel and striking when being pushed upward.
This plunger or harpoon style mole trap appears to be the most popular and available of the different varieties and is designed for being put on-top of the ground directly over the mole runway so that its supporting stakes straddle the tube and its spikes dip down and harpoon the mole as it pushes upward on the trigger pan.
The scissor traps have big scissor-like blades which are inserted across the mole tunnel after pushing down a small area for the cause. When the mole excavates the collapsed part of the tube, the claws slam shut and kill the mole. These traps work well on the deeper main mole tunnels which are generally 8 to 12 inches below the surface.
Proper positioning of mole traps is the key to success or failure. This is where a good understanding of mole behavior and habits is vital.
The mole is a solitary and territorial animal. In reality there usually are only 2 – 3 moles per acre. This territorial nature is an integral element in mole control. After a mole is eliminated by trapping your lawn may soon be maintained by a neighboring mole searching for new grounds causing you to think your mole control plan isn’t working.
Moles make two types of tunnels. Mole hills are built as the mole digs deep runs and pushes soil up through the surface of the lawn.
The interconnecting trails visible above ground and just under the surface are feeding tunnels and might frequently be used only once. Deep tunnels are the mole’s highways which lead between feeding areas and living chambers. These deep tunnels are where the scissor trap really shines. Too find deeper tunnels use a stick and probe between or alongside fresh mounds. After the floor gives way, the rod has probably broken through the burrow.
Finding surface runways that are active will take you a bit more time. Start looking for good straight tunnels. Tunnels that are more likely to be active appear to be those linking feeding areas or those running adjacent to driveways, walks or garden borders. You’ll have to collapse a little area of many tunnels and mark the spots. Over the next couple days you’ll have to check to see which tunnels are re-expanded. These are the active tunnels and this is where you want to place your traps.
These traps do not know the difference between a mole and a hand. Be very careful. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and warnings. And most of all keep them out of the hands of a child and educate your children so that they know better than to play a set mole trap. You can also call Boynton Beach Raccoon Removal for help.